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‘Tickling the Palate’

Gastronomy in Irish Literature and Culture

by Máirtin Mac Con Iomaire (Volume editor) Eamon Maher (Volume editor)
©2014 Edited Collection XVIII, 235 Pages
Series: Reimagining Ireland, Volume 57

Summary

This volume of essays, which originated in the inaugural Dublin Gastronomy Symposium held in the Dublin Institute of Technology in June 2012, offers fascinating insights into the significant role played by gastronomy in Irish literature and culture.
The book opens with an exploration of food in literature, covering figures as varied as Maria Edgeworth, James Joyce, Charles Dickens, Enid Blyton, John McGahern and Sebastian Barry. Other chapters examine culinary practices among the Dublin working classes in the 1950s, offering a stark contrast to the haute cuisine served in the iconic Jammet’s Restaurant; new trends among Ireland’s ‘foodie’ generation; and the economic and tourism possibilities created by the development of a gastronomic nationalism. The volume concludes by looking at the sacramental aspects of the production and consumption of Guinness and examining the place where it is most often consumed: the Irish pub.

Table Of Contents

  • Cover
  • Title
  • Copyright
  • About the author
  • About the book
  • This eBook can be cited
  • Contents
  • Acknowledgements
  • Foreword
  • Works cited
  • Introduction
  • Works cited
  • Section I Literary Representations of Irish Gastronomy
  • ‘That delicate sweetmeat, the Irish plum’: The Culinary World of Maria Edgeworth (1768–1849)
  • Introduction and background
  • The Irish culinary landscape of the nineteenth century
  • Maria Edgeworth: culinary interlocutrice
  • Works cited
  • ‘Know Me Come Eat With Me’: What Food Says about Leopold Bloom
  • Works cited
  • Cowpie, Gruel and Midnight Feasts: The Representation of Food in Popular Children’s Literature
  • Works cited
  • The Rituals of Food and Drink in the Work of John McGahern
  • Works cited
  • The Elusive Landscape of History: Food and Empowerment in Sebastian Barry’s Annie Dunne
  • The elusive landscape of history
  • Food and empowerment in Annie Dunne
  • Annie Dunne and the food culture of everyday rural life
  • Two concluding thoughts
  • Works cited
  • Section II Culinary and Dining Traditions in Ireland
  • ‘We Managed’: Reflections on the Culinary Practices of Dublin’s Working Class Poor in the 1950s
  • Dublin: a polarised culinary society
  • Food purchasing and access to cooking skills
  • Relationships between money, food choice and food storage
  • Methodology
  • Findings
  • (i) Making ends meet
  • (ii) Food choices and the daily meal menu
  • (iii) Food purchasing, food storage and food waste
  • (iv) The psychological significance of cooking and caring in the 1950s and 1960s
  • Conclusion
  • Works cited
  • ‘From Jammet’s to Guilbaud’s’: The Influence of French Haute Cuisine on the Development of Dublin Restaurants
  • Origins and spread of French haute cuisine
  • Evidence of French haute cuisine in private Irish households
  • The emergence of restaurants in Dublin
  • Influence of foreign chefs/restaurateurs
  • A golden age of haute cuisine in Dublin
  • Decline of haute cuisine (1967–1974)
  • Haute cuisine (1974–1986)
  • Nouvelle cuisine and the rise of the chef/proprietor
  • Rebirth of haute cuisine (1994–2008)
  • Works cited
  • A New Craze for Food: Why is Ireland Turning into a Foodie Nation?
  • Works cited
  • Transforming Ireland through Gastronomic Nationalism
  • Gastronomy in society
  • Gastronomy creates capital
  • Gastronomy at work – examples of success in tourism
  • Ireland – the success of the Fuchsia Brand in West Cork
  • Austria – integrating agriculture and gastronomic tourism
  • Norway – ‘scary food’ as an economic driver
  • A possible framework for gastronomic nationalism in Ireland
  • The government
  • The public
  • Business
  • Conclusion
  • Works cited
  • Section III Drink and Be Merry – Beer, Pubs and the Irish Psyche
  • ‘Brew as much as possible during the proper season’: Beer Consumption in Elite Households in Eighteenth-Century Ireland
  • The nature of beer in eighteenth-century England and Ireland
  • Brewing and beer consumption at the ‘big house’
  • Beer service at the grand table
  • Beer fit for a bishop
  • Conclusion
  • Works cited
  • The Irish Pub Abroad: Lessons in the Commodification of Gastronomic Culture
  • The craic: lost and found in Celtic Tiger Ireland
  • Conclusion
  • Works cited
  • Bloomsday and Arthur’s Day: Secular Sacraments as Symbolic and Cultural Capital
  • Works cited
  • Notes on Contributors
  • Index
  • Series Index

Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire
and Eamon Maher (eds)

‘Tickling the Palate’

Gastronomy in Irish Literature
and Culture

images

Bibliographic information published by Die Deutsche Nationalbibliothek. Die Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data is available on the Internet at http://dnb.d-nb.de.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Library of Congress Control Number: 2014934464

ISSN 1662-9094

ISBN 978-3-0343-1769-6 (print)

ISBN 978-3-0353-0598-2 (eBook)

Cover image: The Jammet Hotel and Restaurant (Andrew Street) by Harry Kernoff. Source: Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud – The Merrion Hotel, Dublin.

© Peter Lang AG, International Academic Publishers, Bern 2014 Hochfeldstrasse 32, CH-3012 Bern, Switzerland info@peterlang.com, www.peterlang.com, www.peterlang.net

All rights reserved.

All parts of this publication are protected by copyright.

Any utilisation outside the strict limits of the copyright law, without the permission of the publisher, is forbidden and liable to prosecution. This applies in particular to reproductions, translations, microfilming, and storage and processing in electronic retrieval systems.

This publication has been peer reviewed.

About the author

Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire is a lecturer in culinary arts at the Dublin Institute of Technology. He is an award-winning chef, culinary historian, food writer, broadcaster and ballad singer. He has presented two series of the cookery programme Aingeal sa Christin for RTÉ and has featured on numerous other radio and television programmes. He is chair and co-founder of the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium.

Eamon Maher is Director of the National Centre for Franco-Irish Studies at the Institute of Technology, Tallaght (Dublin), where he also lectures in humanities. His most recent book, co-edited with Eugene O’Brien, is From Prosperity to Austerity: A Socio-Cultural Critique of the Celtic Tiger and its Aftermath (2014).

About the book

‘Here, at last, is a serious consideration of Ireland through its food, drink, and language; a corrective to the false impression that Irish foodways are unworthy of attention.’

— Professor Darra Goldstein

This volume of essays, which originated in the inaugural Dublin Gastronomy Symposium held in the Dublin Institute of Technology in June 2012, offers fascinating insights into the significant role played by gastronomy in Irish literature and culture.

The book opens with an exploration of food in literature, covering figures as varied as Maria Edgeworth, James Joyce, Charles Dickens, Enid Blyton, John McGahern and Sebastian Barry. Other chapters examine culinary practices among the Dublin working classes in the 1950s, offering a stark contrast to the haute cuisine served in the iconic Jammet’s Restaurant; new trends among Ireland’s ‘foodie’ generation; and the economic and tourism possibilities created by the development of a gastronomic nationalism. The volume concludes by looking at the sacramental aspects of the production and consumption of Guinness and examining the place where it is most often consumed: the Irish pub.

This eBook can be cited

This edition of the eBook can be cited. To enable this we have marked the start and end of a page. In cases where a word straddles a page break, the marker is placed inside the word at exactly the same position as in the physical book. This means that occasionally a word might be bifurcated by this marker.

← iv | v → Contents

Acknowledgements

DARRA GOLDSTEIN

Foreword

MÁIRTÍN MAC CON IOMAIRE AND EAMON MAHER

Introduction

SECTION I    Literary Representations of Irish Gastronomy

DOROTHY CASHMAN

‘That delicate sweetmeat, the Irish plum’: The Culinary World of Maria Edgeworth (1768–1849)

FLICKA SMALL

‘Know Me Come Eat With Me’: What Food Says about Leopold Bloom

MICHAEL FLANAGAN

Cowpie, Gruel and Midnight Feasts: The Representation of Food in Popular Children’s Literature

EAMON MAHER

The Rituals of Food and Drink in the Work of John McGahern

← v | vi → RHONA RICHMAN KENNEALLY

The Elusive Landscape of History: Food and Empowerment in Sebastian Barry’s Annie Dunne

SECTION II   Culinary and Dining Traditions in Ireland

TONY KIELY

‘We Managed’: Reflections on the Culinary Practices of Dublin’s Working Class Poor in the 1950s

MÁIRTÍN MAC CON IOMAIRE

‘From Jammet’s to Guilbaud’s’: The Influence of French Haute Cuisine on the Development of Dublin Restaurants

MARJORIE DELEUZE

A New Craze for Food: Why is Ireland Turning into a Foodie Nation?

JOHN MULCAHY

Transforming Ireland through Gastronomic Nationalism

SECTION III  Drink and Be Merry – Beer, Pubs and the Irish Psyche

TARA MCCONNELL

‘Brew as much as possible during the proper season’: Beer Consumption in Elite Households in Eighteenth-Century Ireland

← vi | vii → BRIAN MURPHY

The Irish Pub Abroad: Lessons in the Commodification of Gastronomic Culture

EUGENE O’ BRIEN

Bloomsday and Arthur’s Day: Secular Sacraments as Symbolic and Cultural Capital

Notes on Contributors

Index← vii | viii →

← viii | ix → Acknowledgements

The editors would like to acknowledge the funding provided by the School of Culinary Arts and Food Technology (Dublin Institute of Technology) and the National Centre for Franco-Irish Studies (Institute of Technology Tallaght) towards this publication. Given that our two institutions are coming closer in a bid to gain Technological University status, this collaboration is as timely as it is welcome.

We also wish to thank all the contributors for supplying such an original and varied array of essays and for their professionalism and courteousness throughout the editing process.

The editorial team of Dorothy Cashman, Yvonne Desmond, Tara McConnell, Brian Murphy and Elaine Mahon invested great care and energy in reading through the manuscript, for which we are most grateful.

Since the genesis of this book arose from the inaugural Dublin Gastronomy Symposium in 2012, we would like to thank all who attended, both as presenters and as symposiasts. A special thanks to Darra Goldstein who gave the keynote address and also for contributing the Foreword to this volume. Thanks also to all in DIT Cathal Brugha Street who ensured that the Symposium ran seamlessly, particularly Frank Cullen, John Clancy, Pauline Danaher, Tony Campbell, Dermot Seberry, Tony Conlon, Sean Hogan and Mike O’Connor.

Finally, we are deeply indebted to all the staff at Peter Lang, especially the commissioning editor Christabel Scaife and the ever-efficient Mary Critchley. ← ix | x →

Details

Pages
XVIII, 235
Year
2014
ISBN (PDF)
9783035305982
ISBN (ePUB)
9783035398311
ISBN (MOBI)
9783035398304
ISBN (Softcover)
9783034317696
DOI
10.3726/978-3-0353-0598-2
Language
English
Publication date
2014 (April)
Keywords
gastronomic nationalism production consumption
Published
Oxford, Bern, Berlin, Bruxelles, Frankfurt am Main, New York, Wien, 2014. 253 pp., 4 b/w ill., 3 tables

Biographical notes

Máirtin Mac Con Iomaire (Volume editor) Eamon Maher (Volume editor)

Máirtín Mac Con Iomaire is a lecturer in culinary arts at the Dublin Institute of Technology. He is an award-winning chef, culinary historian, food writer, broadcaster and ballad singer. He has presented two series of the cookery programme Aingeal sa Christin for RTÉ and has featured on numerous other radio and television programmes. He is chair and co-founder of the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium. Eamon Maher is Director of the National Centre for Franco-Irish Studies at the Institute of Technology, Tallaght (Dublin), where he also lectures in humanities. His most recent book, co-edited with Eugene O’Brien, is From Prosperity to Austerity: A Socio-Cultural Critique of the Celtic Tiger and its Aftermath (2014).

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