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Food and Culture

Readings through Fictions, Memoirs and Histories

by Gigy J. Alex (Volume editor)
©2026 Edited Collection XXII, 162 Pages

Summary

Food, being a great mnemonic, nourishes, sustains, and elevates human experiences. It is deeply intertwined with one’s identity, culture, community, and history. Be it a humble family recipe or a grand feast or a nursery rhyme on food, it is always aspirational. This book is a collection of essays written by scholars and academics specializing in niche areas of food and cultural studies research. It explores how food narratives in different genres—novels, short stories, children’s books, cookbooks, memoirs, and famine narratives—represent, critique, and shape our understanding of culture, identity, memories, and human predicament. These essays offer interdisciplinary perspectives on how food in literature becomes a potent symbol, connecting readers to themes of culture, memory, identity, and social dynamics. Food in select short stories and novels traces the history of particular food habits; it depicts how the culinary reflects emotional excitement and trauma. Food in children’s literature, for instance, often embodies innocence and adventure, while famine narratives use the absence of food to depict suffering and resilience. Cookbooks and memoirs, on the other hand, bridge storytelling with everyday life, blending recipes with memories.

Table Of Contents

  • Cover Page
  • Title Page
  • Copyright Page
  • Contents
  • Acknowledgement
  • Introduction
  • The Heterotopia of Food: Exploring the Expressions of Desire and Dissent through Spaces of Food in Melissa Broder’s Milk Fed
  • Sweet Dish, Bitter Truth: Food as a Metaphor for Sorrow in Githa Hariharan’s ‘Gajar Halwa’
  • Rice of the Novel: Class Struggle and Caste Trouble in Thakazhi Sivasankara Pillai’s Randitangazhi
  • Eat, Eat, Eat: Expressions of Food in Selected Children’s Storybooks
  • Mapping India through Flavours: An Analysis of Select Non-fiction Works on India’s Foodscapes
  • The Sociocultural Dimension of Food in Select Works of Amitav Ghosh
  • Dalit Food Culture and Deliberate Forgetting; Exploring the Dalit Food Culture through Memories
  • Politics of Memory and Identity in Reem Assil’s Cookbook: Arabiyya
  • Cooking Up Diaspora: A Study of Padma Lakshmi and Madhur Jaffrey’s Memoirs
  • Cookbooks as Cultural Ambassadors: An Analysis of Select Culinary Narratives from Kerala
  • Eating Hunger: The Famine Food Narratives of Travancore Famines with Special Reference to the Great Famine of 1860
  • Survival through the Ages: Tracing the Persistence of Famine Foods in Bengal
  • Notes on Contributors
  • Index

Acknowledgement

I place on record my heartfelt gratitude to all who have made this book possible. This work has come out of the efforts of our team in organising the national conference on Food and Culture: Transforming Perspectives and Paradigms, inspired and conducted through the collaborative spirit of scholars and faculty from the Department of Humanities and Social Sciences at the Indian Institute of Space Science and Technology. I am indebted to the Director, the Registrar and the Deans for providing infrastructure and financial support for conducting this conference. This conference was enthusiastically received by scholars and academics across India, who were eager to bring forth this collection and without their contributions, it would have been impossible to have achieved this success.

I am grateful to Prof. Meena T. Pillai, whose visionary support and encouragement inspired the idea of this publication. Her guidance has been invaluable in seeing this project through. My heartfelt thanks go to Dr Babitha Justin, my dear friend, whose unwavering support and inspiration made this conference possible.

Special thanks to the brilliant scholars Amalu Shaji and Shyam Prasad, who illustrated the cover pages. I also owe the deepest gratitude to a few exceptional individuals who have been with me at every step of this journey: Jorlin Jose, Bismi Nizar, Sukanya V Mohan, Maria Philip and Mridula Robert. They are more than just scholars and friends; they have been my pillars of support, aiding in editing, organising and offering critical insights.

I would like to thank Dr Sayan Dey and Dr Gurpinder Lalli for their trust in me and for giving me this opportunity. My thanks go to Ms. Indrani Dutta, Acquisitions Editor, and Kayalvizhi Saravanakumar, Publishing Success Manager for their forbearance and guidance in bringing out this anthology.

Lastly, I cannot ignore the support given to me by my family. They put up with my weirdness and shared this dream of mine. Thank you for your understanding and unwavering support. This journey wouldn’t have been possible without each one of you.

Introduction

‘In time, I came to understand that for people who really love it, food is a lens through which to view the world. For us, the way that people cook and eat, how they set their tables, and the utensils that they use all tell a story’.

—Ruth Reichl, Introduction to the Modern Library Food Series

Yes, food is a lens through which we look at the world; it is a storytelling agent. Charles Lamb, while explaining the accidental burning of pigs (1888), discusses how an accident by Bo-bo, the swineherd Ho-ti’s eldest son, helped humanity to understand a culinary delicacy, roasted pork, and how it altered the culinary expectations of people. Food, a basic necessity for all living beings, is perceived as a tangible product due to its organoleptic qualities and as an intangible concept, as it can substantiate abstract motives. Food studies, since its inception as a thrust area in academic disciplines, has looked at the tangibility, production, conservation, preparation, management, manufacturing and distribution of food materials from a scientific perspective. It has also gained momentum as people belonging to disparate disciplines began studying the various aspects related to food habits of communities, history and evolution of cuisines, cuisines of the past, erased cuisines, forgotten recipes, culinary invasions and food habits introduced by colonial powers and invaders. Thus, food studies broadened its understanding with the interdisciplinary influences of history, sociology, tribal studies, ethnography, anthropology, management, psychology, film studies and literary studies. Food and literary studies interact in an interesting nexus with the multifarious methods of cultural studies that widened the scope of both literary and cultural studies. With this momentous tryst, there has been a paradigm shift in contemporary literary studies in terms of the approaches as well as themes. Further, discourse analysis started employing methodologies of memory studies, ecocritical studies, affect theories and other methodologies from the wide spectrum of cultural studies. Roland Barthes in his essay ‘Towards a Psychosociology of Contemporary Food Consumption’, opines about food that it has ‘a constant tendency to transform itself into a situation’ (2003: 29). To cite an instance, he speaks of the advertising mythology about coffee and shows how coffee, that was a symbolic discourse of neurostimulants, is depicted in contemporary advertisements as part of relaxation and breaks. In contrast, A. R. Venkatachalapathy in his book on Writings in Cultural History (2006) discusses how coffee became the cultural marker of the Tamil Brahmins and the middle class and how tea became associated with the urban middle class (11–27). As such, food becomes an organic system (Barthes 2013: 29) that is constantly transforming. Pierre Bourdieu, while discussing the concept of taste, hints at somebody’s taste for elaborate casserole dishes, which is in line with the ‘traditional conception of women’s role’ (2013: 33).

Over the past two decades, research and investigations into the sociocultural significance of food and its manifestations have revolutionised our understanding of food, food spaces and active participants in food manifestations. The genealogy of critical food studies could be traced from the works of Sydney Mintz (2013: 91–103) and Claude Lévi-Strauss. Strauss in his ‘Culinary Triangle’ contends that ‘cooking of a society is a language in which it unconsciously translates its structure—or else resigns itself, still unconsciously, to revealing its contradictions’ (2013: 47). Barthes, on food from the vantage point of French society claims that ‘it has a constant tendency to transform itself into a situation’ (2013: 29), which is the same with all societies of every milieu. Pierre Bourdieu, explaining the dissimilarities between the eating habits of the working class and the bourgeoisie, takes our attention to the significance of form and substance, where ‘food is claimed as a material reality and a source of sustenance’ for the working class, on the other hand it stresses the ‘manner of presenting and consuming food and the organisation and setting of the places’ (2013: 38). Margaret Mead observes that the whole world is connected through food and it’s a commitment of adults to let their children be free to ‘think of shared food as a source of well-being for everyone everywhere’ (2013: 22). Understanding the history of food and food habits is relevant to the critical cultural readings of literary texts. In the treatise on the development of world cuisine, Jack Goody (2013) mentions the salt tax and what Europe gained from a country like India, but Mark Kurlansky (2003) gives a larger picture as he dedicates an entire text to discussing the history of salt, along with recipes that are historical. The chapter ‘Salt and the Great Soul’ speaks about the salt history, India’s revolt against the salt tax and how Gandhi played a prominent role in it. In the recent work by Shahu Patole, Dalit kitchens of Marathwada (2024) he describes the dietary habits and cultural practices of maang and mahar communities and observes that food habits and caste cannot be separated in Indian culture (2024: 14–30).

From a sociological perspective, Georg Simmel in ‘The Sociology of Meal’ argues that meals are representative discourses of social, cultural and political narratives as they manifest community, belongingness and identity (1997: 131). Hunger and famine can be understood in different ways: as a lack of food and an articulation of social inequality, which demands a form of critical sociological inquiry. The question of hunger and food speaks profoundly to us when we reflect on power, privilege and the rights to nourishment.

Simmel opines that meals become fundamentally an exercise in how they work as social rituals reflecting and moulding human relationships and social structures. Being a sociologist himself, he views meals as more than fulfilling a physiological need but rather a complex social event, satisfying roles within diverse cultural domains. According to Simmel, sharing a meal embodies something greater than merely having eaten something. It provides social interaction and cultural expression (1997: 131). Meals are symbolic of stages for social rituals; one communicates one’s position or status in the social order, rehearses certain community ties and generally seals social bonds. The form of a meal and the roles that people take, as well as the interactional vigour, reflects the group’s social fabric as much as its rhetoric.

Meals have symbolic dimensions, for the kinds of foods, the ways of preparation and the occasions of consumption, all invest food with meaning. What appears on one’s table often serves as a class or regional indicator or family marker. In communal or shared food, a sense of ‘oneness’ and equality is felt in every aspect where everybody is set to have equal, fair and complementary positions in partaking in common feasting. As Simmel states, cultural differences influence the sociological meaning of meals; hence, different societies have their own culinary traditions and eating habits. He ends it by comparing two principles of sociality: the former consists of the aspect of meals where the community forms a unitary identity and cohesiveness, while in others, individualism develops. In that respect, Simmel establishes the role of context in social life concerning meals.

In addition to the physicality of food, memories and emotions attached to cooking practices are very significant. These scholars include David Sutton, who discusses ‘prospective memory’ and ‘embodied taste memories’ and concludes that food is a vital mediator of social relations through its ability as an identity symbol and marker of cultural difference (2008: 160–70). As shown by Sutton, prospective memories bring to mind an essential point of the manner through which anticipation usually leads to controlling our food habits as well as preferences. If a person is preparing a holiday feast or a family gathering, people recollect what they did last time to make good choices while expecting similar results. Thus, dialectics between memory and expectation can be helpful not only for deciding what to cook but also for how to present and share it with others.

Sutton’s ideas on prospective memories also extend to the cultural uses of food. Cultures have their rituals and traditions that explain, in their best expressions, how, at times, people can remember and look forward to the food they are going to eat, like seasonal feasts, family dishes or community eating traditions. These frameworks, therefore, sew together a tapestry of rich expectations, guiding culinary choice and enriching the communal experience of eating.

Details

Pages
XXII, 162
Publication Year
2026
ISBN (PDF)
9781803747828
ISBN (ePUB)
9781803747835
ISBN (Softcover)
9781803747811
DOI
10.3726/b22373
Language
English
Publication date
2026 (April)
Keywords
culinary travelogues Food in Children’s books Culinary memoirs Famine Narratives Famine Foods Food and Cultural Studies cookbooks Food fictions
Published
Chennai, Berlin, Bruxelles, Lausanne, New York, Oxford, 2026. xxii, 162 pp., 2 fig. b/w.
Product Safety
Peter Lang Group AG

Biographical notes

Gigy J. Alex (Volume editor)

Gigy J. Alex is with the Department of Humanities and Social Sciences at the Indian Institute of Space Science and Technology (IIST), Dept of Space, Valiamala, Thiruvananthapuram, India. Her areas of interest include Food and Cultural Studies, and Science Fiction. She loves teaching and actively engages in culinary research from the cultural studies perspective.

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Title: Food and Culture