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Typicality in History / La typicité dans l’histoire

Tradition, Innovation, and Terroir / Tradition, innovation et terroir

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Edited By Giovanni Ceccarelli, Alberto Grandi and Stefano Magagnoli

Typical food is an in-vogue topic, embodying issues such as current trends in food globalization and European Union policies on agriculture and trade. It is, however, striking how little is known about its history. This book, inspired by the conference La tipicità nella storia: tradizione, innovazione, territorio, held in Parma and Langhirano in 2010, is an attempt to fill this gap. It includes essays by historians, sociologists, economists and experts in the food industry, who cover a wide range of products (wine, cheese, chocolate, cider), across a broad geographic scope (from France to Costa Rica and Norway) and time frame (from the Middle Ages to the present day). Besides the crucial issue of when and why the link between food and place of origin emerged, the contributors look at interactions between physical terroir and human savoir- faire and also between industrial innovation and traditional skills. Typicality is usually considered as a bottom-up process but the role of institutional protection is also examined. Designation of origin can be seen as a qualitative safeguard for food production, yet its influence on consumers’ choices is emphasized as well. In its approach, this multi-faceted book questions the oversimplified idea of typicality arising from a vaguely defined traditional food heritage. In 2010, the editors of this book founded the Food Lab, a research laboratory on food history based in the Department of Economics at the University of Parma.

This book contains articles in English and French.

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Acknowledgments................................................................................ 11 Typicality in History. Tracing a Basic Definition ............................. 13 Giovanni Ceccarelli, Alberto Grandi, Stefano Magagnoli PART I. TASTE AND TYPICALITY: CONSTRUCTION AND INVENTION OF TRADITION / PREMIÈRE PARTIE. GOÛT ET TYPICITÉ: CONSTRUCTION ET INVENTION DE LA TRADITION Terroir: jalons pour l’histoire d’un mot............................................ 23 Madeleine Ferrières The Contents of Typical Food Products: Tradition, Myth, Memory. Some Notes on Nostalgia Marketing ................................. 45 Maura Franchi The Avatar: An Economic History Paradigm for Typical Products............................................................................ 69 Giovanni Ceccarelli, Alberto Grandi, Stefano Magagnoli The Building of Typicality as Food Pattern (Italy, XIVth-XVIth Centuries) ................................ 87 Laura Prosperi La construction des “spécialités” culinaires du Sud-Ouest de la France (XVIIIe-XIXe siècles) ............................. 97 Philippe Meyzie Imagining Identities.Women’s Magazines and the Invention of Culinary Traditions in Flanders (1945-1970) ............................. 109 Anneke Geyzen Typical Food in Norway. A Developer of History and Tradition............................................. 129 Virginie Amilien The Swiss Milk Chocolate. A Typical Image for an Atypical Product ....................................... 149 Régis Huguenin 8PART II. TYPICALITY AND INSTITUTIONS / DEUXIÈME PARTIE. TYPICITÉ ET INSTITUTIONS Costa Rica Between Trademarks and Geographical Indications. A Case Study in the Development of Typicality ............................. 167 Fabio Parasecoli “Walser’s pride”: A Mountain Cheese as Part of Regional Identity and Regional Development Strategies in the Biosphere Reserve Großes Walsertal – Austria .................... 177 Stefan Kah, Norbert Weixlbaumer Produits typiques alpins, écomusées et marketing territorial comme stratégies de distinction et de survie ................................... 189 Cristina Grasseni Appellations d’origine conseillées. Histoire des conseillers agricoles et des produits typiquement savoyards (1950-1985) ...................... 213 Sylvain Brunier,...

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