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Thomas Hardy Writing Dress

Series:

Simon Gatrell

This new study provides fresh readings of Thomas Hardy’s work and illuminates the social and cultural history of dress in the nineteenth century. The book argues that Hardy had a more detailed and acute understanding of the importance of dress in forming and regulating personal identity and social relations than any other writer of his time. Structured thematically, it takes into account both nineteenth-century and modern theoretical approaches to the significance of what we wear.
The author gives an extended analysis of individual works by Hardy, showing, for example, that A Pair of Blue Eyes is central to the study of the function of clothing in the expression and perception of sexuality. The Hand of Ethelberta, The Mayor of Casterbridge, Tess of the d’Urbervilles and The Woodlanders are examined in order to show the extent to which dress obscures or reveals the nature of the self. Hardy’s other novels, as well as the short stories and poems, are used to confirm the centrality of dress and clothing in Hardy’s work. The book also raises issues such as the gendering of dress, cross-dressing, work clothes and working with clothes, dress and the environment, the symbolism of colour in clothes, and the dress conventions relating to death.

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Index 293

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aprons 180, 247, 267–8 ball-gowns 22–6 Barthes, Roland: The Fashion System 4 Björk, Lennart: The Literary Notebooks of Thomas Hardy 266 bodices 36, 78 boots 16, 53, 113–18, 123, 174, 177, 264 bonnets 26, 37, 42, 45, 54, 58, 65, 93, 126, 162, 167, 178, 180, 199, 218, 248 bracelets 84 breeches 16, 44, 133, 141, 147, 174 Bullen, J. B.: The Expressive Eye 1 Bullough, Bonnie, and Vern Bul- lough: Cross Dressing, Sex and Gender 139–40 canes or walking sticks 40, 133 caps 133, 255 cap-ribbons 66–7, 255 capes 53 Carlyle, Thomas: Sartor Resartus 4–5, 28–30, 131, 171, 240, 251 Cealey Harrison, Wendy and John Hood-Williams: Beyond Sex and Gender 265 cloaks 18, 58, 100, 147, 218, 270 clogs 265 coats 16–17, 47, 71–2, 130, 158, 159, 161, 178 colour (of dress) 171–211 black 15, 16, 33, 37, 38–9, 54, 167, 241, 266, 271 blue 47–8, 100, 241 brown 44, 93 cream 93 gray 16, 18, 42, 53, 74, 76 green 48 heather-coloured 69 murrey-coloured 60 pink 51, 66, 93, 150, 229, 248 puce 48 purple 64 red 50, 53, 57, 69, 93, 241 violet 155 yellow 44 white 48, 51, 55, 66, 97, 100, 247 whitey-brown 53, 167 Comte, Auguste 266 Clough, Arthur Hugh: Amours de Voyage 4, 30 cravats 53 crinolines 248 Cumming, Valerie: Gloves 276 Cunnington, C. Willett: English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century 251 dance 18, 25, 65, 70–1, 100...

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