The Europe that was Lost – Thoughts on Central and Eastern European Modernism
7. In Galicia and Elsewhere. “Halb-Asien”, Sociological Circumstances, Conditions of Life, and a Remarkable Exhibition in Lemberg
243 7. In Galicia and Elsewhere “Halb-Asien”, Sociological Circumstances, Conditions of Life, and a Re- markable Exhibition in Lemberg In 1903, good old Baedeker699 was able to inform his potential travelers that the fast train from Hauptbahnof in Krakau (Kraków) took seven hours to go to Lem- berg, Poland s´ Teresienburg, the capital of the Habsburg crown-land Galicia, with its population of 160,000 residents the biggest city in the province next to Krakau. The train departed at 1.10 AM and passed the cities or towns of Bochnia, Tarnów, Przemysl, and Gródek before it puffed into the Glowny dworzec station in the dis- trict of Krakówskie, from which one of the city s´ biggest streets – Ulica Gródecka – took the traveler to the city s´ historical center about two kilometers Eastwards. Ten years later the traveling time was only one hour shorter,700 a fact that may be interpreted as a metaphor of the miserable economical and industrial state of the province in comparison with neighboring Bohemia as well as both the Russian and the Prussian zones of Poland. Although the process of modernization was painfully slow, even here the urbanization was reflected in a growing population. In 1908, the population of Lemberg or Lwów, as the city was called officially in the new state established after the Great War, was almost 190,000 701 and just before the outbreak of the war about 210,000 residents, of which 85 percent were Polish-speaking even though...
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