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Cheese Manufacturing in the Twentieth Century

The Italian Experience in an International Context


Edited By Rita Maria Michela d'Errico, Claudio Besana and Renato Ghezzi

Since the end of the nineteenth century the dairy sectors of some industrialised European and American countries have experienced a phase of growth that took place at a different rate and in a different manner in each country, and which was made possible by the availability of raw materials and a more widespread knowledge of scientific and technological methods. The sector’s expansion was favoured by a revolution in transport networks, the beginning of globalisation in world markets and, decisively, by advances in packaging and refrigeration techniques. Italy in particular, despite its low availability of raw materials compared to other countries, rose quickly throughout the last century to become one of the largest international producers and exporters of cheese, especially of high value PDO cheeses. What factors were behind this achievement and which were the strengths and weaknesses of the sector during the twentieth century? The articles presented in this volume attempt to provide an answer to these questions from different points of view and using different interpretative approaches. The geographical range covered by these studies also reaches beyond Italy in order to look at other countries with relatively ancient dairy traditions. This comparative approach, although limited to just a few countries, is important in that it allows us to describe the evolution of a milk and dairy sector which has had such a large influence on the economic life of many regions in the Italian peninsula.

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Buffalo Mozzarella in Campania from Its Origin to the Twenty-First Century (Franca Pirolo)


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Buffalo Mozzarella in Campania from Its Origin to the Twenty-First Century


University of Catania


The importance assumed by the dairy products market over time on both national and international level leads us to examine particularly, despite the scarcity of documentation, the importance of buffalo Mozzarella production. This takes place almost always in the same areas as buffalo farming is situated. As a matter of fact, the figure of the farmer often coincides with that of the producer and the seller. Therefore, buffalo Mozzarella production, thanks to the particular type of milk used and the close interaction with the territory, constitutes one of the most important productions of the dairy farming sector located in some areas of Campania and Southern Lazio.

This chapter aims to offer a historical and economic reconstruction of buffalo Mozzarella production and its manufacturing process. It traces its history from its origins, following its evolution from the first production processes to the manufacturing techniques improvements, then to the gradual and progressive expansion of the sales markets worldwide and then, a very important step, the establishment in 1981 of the Consorzio Nazionale per la tutela della Mozzarella di bufala, which in 1993, after the emanation of a protective EEC Regulation, changed its name to Consorzio per la tutela del formaggio Mozzarella di bufala campana. The aim of the “Consorzio” is to preserve this product from frauds and adulteration. This need induced the...

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